Reviving traditional crafts: [4] Reconstructing traditional Vietnamese costume

For decades, a paradox has persisted: while the ao dai remains a familiar symbol of Vietnamese culture, few people know what their ancestors wore throughout the country's dynastic history. Many traditional garments survive only in historical records, paintings, temple sculptures and museum collections. Today, many young Vietnamese can readily recognize Japan's kimono, Korea's hanbok or China's hanfu, yet struggle to identify their own historical attire.

This disconnect has not only weakened public awareness of traditional Vietnamese costume but has also contributed to the decline of the crafts that once brought these garments to life, including weaving, dyeing, embroidery and the making of traditional accessories.

Bridging the knowledge gap on traditional Vietnamese costume

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Over the centuries, historical upheavals and cultural exchanges gradually pushed traditional Vietnamese clothing out of everyday life. By the early 20th century, Western fashion had largely replaced many ceremonial and daily garments, and after the August Revolution of 1945, traditional costumes survived mainly in historical records and performing arts.

For many years, the concept of traditional Vietnamese costume remained unfamiliar to the public. Many people assumed that the ao dai and ao tu than were the only traditional Vietnamese garments, while the rich diversity of court and everyday dress across different dynasties received little attention. Limited public resources and research have also led to frequent confusion between Vietnamese attire and the traditional costumes of other East Asian cultures.

Efforts to reconstruct historical garments face significant challenges. While Nguyen Dynasty costumes are relatively well documented through surviving artifacts and photographs, clothing from the Ly, Tran and Le dynasties must be recreated largely from temple sculptures, historical paintings and written records. The decline of traditional weaving, dyeing and embroidery has made it even more difficult to reproduce the original materials and techniques.

Rediscovering history through every stitch

In recent years, growing interest among young people in cultural heritage has inspired researchers, artisans and designers to revive traditional Vietnamese attire. Among them is Nguyen Duc Huy, who is helping reconnect the country's costume heritage by combining historical research with traditional craftsmanship.

Born in 1994, Huy first became fascinated with traditional Vietnamese costume while studying in Germany. Between 2010 and 2015, as the movement to research and reconstruct historical Vietnamese dress was beginning to take shape, he spent much of his free time studying historical records, examining surviving artifacts and exchanging knowledge with fellow enthusiasts.

For Huy, the most important aspect of reconstructing traditional Vietnamese costume is not tailoring but research. Each dynasty had its own regulations governing garment proportions, colors and construction, and even minor deviations can compromise historical authenticity.

Over the years, he has compiled references on costumes from the Ly, Tran, Le and Nguyen dynasties. While Nguyen-era garments are relatively well documented through surviving artifacts and photographs, reconstructing clothing from earlier periods relies largely on temple sculptures, historical paintings and written records.

“Whenever a new artifact or historical source emerges, we revisit our patterns and adjust them accordingly,” Huy said. “Some garments have been revised many times before reaching a historically accurate form.”

Huy believes Vietnamese historical dress should be understood within the broader East Asian cultural sphere, sharing common features while maintaining its own distinct identity. He also studies traditional weaving, dyeing and finishing techniques, noting that recreating natural dyes often requires extensive experimentation because historical records rarely describe the exact colors they produced.

Bringing traditional Vietnamese costume back into everyday life

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According to Huy, the construction of traditional Vietnamese costume is relatively simple, but hand-finished details, such as edging and hidden stitching, require exceptional patience and skill. A garment made from naturally dyed fabrics can take up to two months to complete.

In 2019, Huy founded Dong Phong with the goal of bringing traditional Vietnamese costume beyond museums and into contemporary life. Today, the brand has built a loyal customer base, mainly people under 35, who are interested not only in wearing historical garments but also in learning about Vietnamese history and culture.

Huy has also noticed a shift in attitudes among younger generations. Rather than insisting on historically complete outfits, many now prefer incorporating traditional elements into modern wardrobes, for example, pairing a yem with contemporary skirts or trousers, or wearing a cross-collared robe as a lightweight outer layer.

“Traditional Vietnamese costume is still less familiar than the national attire of some other Asian countries,” Huy said. “But that also gives young people more room to research, innovate and develop it in their own way. For me, the greatest reward is helping bring Vietnamese culture closer to everyday life.”

Huy believes one of the biggest challenges in reconstructing traditional Vietnamese costume is the lack of comprehensive and accessible research materials. Much of the existing knowledge remains scattered across academic publications, museums and specialist communities, making it difficult for newcomers to enter the field.

He also emphasized that recreating authentic materials depends on the continued vitality of traditional weaving, dyeing and embroidery villages. While many artisans still follow long-established production methods, today's market calls for products that preserve traditional craftsmanship while meeting contemporary needs.

“A craft can only survive if its products remain relevant to modern life. When young people are willing to wear, use and take pride in traditional Vietnamese costume, that's when the craft truly has a sustainable future,” Huy said.

A complete traditional Vietnamese costume brings together the work of many artisans, from silk farming, weaving and natural dyeing to embroidery and the making of buttons, belts, hats, footwear and accessories. As a result, each reconstruction project not only revives a historical costume but also creates new opportunities for multiple traditional crafts to thrive in contemporary society.