Reviving traditional crafts: [3] Gen Z's reflections on Chuon Ngo mother-of-pearl inlaying

Bringing mother-of-pearl inlay into everyday life

Growing up in Chuon Ngo, a village renowned for its mother-of-pearl inlay craft, Nguyen Thi Minh Chau always regarded these handcrafted objects as a natural part of everyday life. The shimmering iridescence of inlaid shells, intricate patterns and memories of her grandmother skillfully shaping tiny shell pieces with a carving knife have been woven into her childhood.

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It was not until university that Nguyen Thi Minh Chau realized many people her age knew little about mother-of-pearl inlay, despite its thousand-year history. Concerned that the craft could gradually fade away, she founded Mun Artisan to introduce Chuon Ngo's heritage to a younger generation.

Working with skilled artisans in her hometown, Chau focuses on product design while her three co-founders handle marketing and operations. Without a physical store, the brand has grown primarily through Instagram and TikTok.

“We're not trying to do anything extraordinary,” Chau said. “We simply want to see whether mother-of-pearl can return to everyday life in a more approachable way.”

For Chau, the greatest challenge is not the inlay technique itself but the design process. Drawing inspiration from Vietnamese poetry, she creates modern accessories, such as hairpins, brooches and bag charms, that bring traditional craftsmanship into everyday use.

Although her grandmother, artisan Le Thi Vui, initially worried about the challenges of pursuing such a demanding craft, she ultimately became Chau's greatest source of encouragement, inspiring her to carry forward the legacy of Chuon Ngo's mother-of-pearl tradition.

Making luxury more accessible

Traditional mother-of-pearl inlay is often associated with premium products crafted from precious hardwoods and imported shells, with prices ranging from hundreds to thousands of U.S. dollars depending on their complexity.

Chau said that even a small hairpin can take two to three weeks to complete, requiring dozens of meticulous steps, from carving and inlaying to polishing. Beyond the craftsmanship, artisans also face the challenge of adapting traditional techniques to contemporary designs, creating minimalist accessories that appeal to younger consumers.

“The smaller the piece, the more difficult it is,” Chau explained. “Some shell fragments are smaller than a fingernail. Every shell is unique, so no two products are ever exactly the same. That individuality is what makes handcrafted pieces special, even if they can never achieve the uniform perfection of mass-produced goods.”

“We see materials as a palette of colors, not a matter of expense. The goal is to combine them in the most beautiful way,” Chau said. To make its products more accessible, Mun Artisan carefully balances aesthetics and production costs, offering most items at USD 3.8-11.4.

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The brand has gradually gained recognition, with customers appreciating not only its distinctive designs but also their durability. Chau recalled one customer saying a hairpin had survived being run over by a vehicle without breaking - a testament to the strength of natural wood and traditional inlay techniques.

Chuon Ngo Village (formerly part of Phu Xuyen District and now in Chuyen My Commune, Hanoi) has been the cradle of Viet Nam's traditional mother-of-pearl inlay craft since the 11th century. Through the skilled hands of local artisans, raw shell fragments are carefully cut, polished and inlaid into wood to create intricate designs that shimmer with iridescent colors.

The village uses a wide range of shell materials sourced both domestically and from countries such as Hong Kong, Singapore and Indonesia. Artisans work with various types of shells to create detailed motifs, while Chuon Ngo's distinctive technique preserves each shell piece intact and seamlessly fitted into the wood, ensuring both durability and artistic excellence.

Among the craft's dedicated guardians is artisan Nguyen Thi Vui, head of the Ngo Ha Lacquer and Mother-of-Pearl Cooperative and grandmother of Mun Artisan founder Nguyen Thi Minh Chau. To help preserve the tradition, she has organized vocational training courses since 1994, particularly for children with disabilities. To date, she has trained nearly 2,500 people with disabilities and created employment opportunities for more than 1,000 local workers.

As its customer base continues to grow, Mun Artisan is expanding beyond hair accessories to include mirrors, picture frames and office décor. For Chau, the mission is clear: to bring Chuon Ngo's mother-of-pearl craft back into everyday life through contemporary, practical products. By reimagining tradition in small but meaningful ways, she and her team are helping ensure the craft remains a living part of modern life rather than a fading memory.